How to replace catalytic converter 2000 ford taurus

However, I looked it up and it doesn't show one. I thought so too. I purchased the only gasket they sold at Autozone. They called it an exhaust flange gasket. After bolting it up, the flange leaks BAD. Funny, it wasn't leaking before I replaced it. I don't know what to do. I can't drive it this way. My daughter was given this car that belonged to her great-grandmother.

It was rarely driven and only had 39, miles on it when we got it in July. We recently had to replace the original plugs and wires which led to replacing the gaskets on the intake as well as the coil pack. Car is still running really rough the catalytic converter was glowing orange after only a few minutes.

How many catalytic converters are there and what can I expect ball park figure in repair costs in Florida? Good afternoon, First, you need to have the reason the catalytic converter is glowing or you will ruin the new catalytic converter. Roy Was this answer. Thank you for the response. How do I know which catalytic converter I need?

We were told that the car has three of them? The primary catalytic converters or the front two are the ones you need. The rear is a warm up catalytic converter. I would not replace that one. The front two come as part of the pipe as in the picture I sent you. It is all one unit. Is the cat. Converter in front of vehicle by the fan shroud. Is it bolted onto the pipe.

Can anyone e-mail me a diagram of bank 2 cat converter or tell me where I can find it? Hi, so I discovered recently after my car broke down that someone has installed my spark plugs poorly and they were loose to the touch when we went to check them. We replaced those and are still in the process of fixing the water pump because of a leak.

When the car broke down, it made a loud sputtering sort of clanky noise from the passenger side of the car. What I want to know is if lose spark plugs can cause excess fuel to get into he system, and if so could this have caused a failed catalytic converter which was the noise? If you bang on the catalytic converter and it rattles inside, the substrate has broken loose.

That's a mechanical problem. When a converter fails from too much raw fuel, it becomes so overheated it will turn orange. That's a chemical failure. Neither will be caused by loose spark plugs. At most what could happen is excess air can get sucked in during the intake strokes, and that will cause a lean mixture. There would be insufficient fuel to go with that air so you'd have hesitation or stumbling problems and perhaps reduced power.

At first the Engine Computer will see the lean mixture from the oxygen sensors and it will add fuel to the calculations in an attempt to correct the mixture. If that gets bad enough to where the needed correction is beyond the computer's capability, it will set a diagnostic fault code and turn on the Check Engine light. You didn't say what the breakdown was or involved. The engine will still run with a rattling catalytic converter and loose spark plugs. Well, when the car broke down it was during a complete downpour, during which time I had a leak in one of the pipes of my cooling system, it was behind the engine right up against the dash area, so I was using water in the system to save money, this was in August I opened the hood at a gas station to make sure of enough water still and to add a little oil, I drove the car about 8 miles further and it misfired and then lost all power so I pulled over.

The engine was steaming a rattling sort of fluttering noise was coming from the passenger side of the car right before it stopped. The car starts just fine but idles pretty bad, as I had said we discovers my plugs were extremely lose and my dad assumed that opening my hood got them wet in the downpour and caused the breakdown, the car is still not running well and the exhaust is thicker than most I would say, and the car seems like it is fighting to stay at a decent idle.

I have gotten new plugs a new water pump and fixed the leak but I'm not sure what the noise was or what is still wrong with my car. I can only assume I did damage to something else when it broke down? They usually start to tear away and leak at the brace that holds the two sides together. Another thing to keep in mind is that, yes, you can get the parts elsewhere cheaper.

Mechanics and shop owners have to eat too, you know! Thanks to all your messages. Back three month ago, when my engine light was on for the first time, I visited a small garage to have it checked. After it turned on again days later, I got the code read by AutoZone and it was P This time the code was P I got very confused. And this guy said a aftermarket cat replacement may do the fix. Do you think they are competent? Any suggestions?

Any experience or advices? A scan tool, which takes more expertise to use than a code scanner, can be used to look at the sensors and see what the engine computer sees. Other tests can, more directly, check the oxygen sensors. So, proper troubleshooting is essential to prevent costly mistakes. Put the repair shop on the hook. If they say that replacing the catalytic converters will fix the problem, tell them to put that guarantee in writing, and that guarantee will include also, in writing oxygen sensors, and other sensors.

They will either troubleshoot, or do a song and dance for you. This scenario has already been played out with a past poster of a Taurus. Get another opinion from another shop.